Eau Claire, WI · Northwestern Wisconsin Closed now (715) 450-9897

Full-depth repair · Based in Eau Claire

Saw Cut and Replace Asphalt Patching

A patch fails at its edges before it fails anywhere else. Cutting a clean vertical line and rebuilding to full depth is the difference between a repair that lasts and one you are looking at again in two winters.

Verticaledges, cut not broken
Full depththrough to sound base
Compactedin lifts, not one pour
Freeestimates

Why the Edge Decides It

A failed area does not have a boundary. It has a middle that is obviously gone and an edge that fades out into asphalt that looks fine and is not. If you dig to the damage and stop, you leave a ragged, sloped, half-broken perimeter, and you lay new material against it.

That perimeter is where the patch dies. A sloped edge means the new asphalt tapers to nothing at the join, so it is thinnest exactly where the wheel loads cross it. A ragged edge cannot be compacted against, so the join is loose. And a broken edge is already cracked, so water goes straight down it into the base you just rebuilt.

A saw cut fixes all three at once. It gives a straight vertical face, full depth, through sound material, so the new asphalt is at full thickness right up to the join and there is something solid to compact against.

It is also why the cut is made outside the visible damage rather than on it. Where the failure ends is not where it looks like it ends.

How the job runs

  • Mark the cut outside the failure
  • Saw a vertical face, full depth
  • Break out and haul off
  • Dig to something firm underneath
  • Rebuild and compact the base
  • Lay asphalt in lifts, compact each
  • Seal the joint around the perimeter

If the bottom is wet when it is opened, that is a drainage problem, and the best patch in the world will not last sitting on water.

When This Is the Right Repair

Saw cut and replace is for failure that goes through the surface into the base: potholes, alligator cracking, areas that flex under your foot, and anything that has sunk. Those are structural, and no surface treatment fixes them.

It is the wrong repair when the surface is only worn or cracked but still solid underneath. Cutting sound asphalt out costs money and adds joints, and joints are what you spend the rest of the lot's life sealing. Cracks in a sound surface get filled hot; a gray but solid surface gets sealed.

It also stops being the right answer when there is too much of it. Once roughly a quarter to a third of a lot needs cutting out, you are patching patches, and an overlay or a rebuild becomes better value. Measuring how much has actually failed is what the estimate is for.

The tell

  • Flexes underfoot the base has gone, cut it out
  • Cracked but solid fill the cracks
  • Gray but sound seal it
  • A third of the lot price an overlay instead

Standing on the broken area and feeling whether it moves is the quickest test there is, and it is one you can do yourself before anybody quotes it.

What Usually Comes With It

Cutting the pavement open exposes what put it there in the first place.

This page is the method. For potholes, alligatoring and sunken areas generally, see asphalt repair.

Questions We Get

Why saw cut instead of just digging out the bad part?
Because of the edge. Digging to the damage leaves a sloped, ragged perimeter, which means the new asphalt is thinnest exactly where wheels cross it, there is nothing solid to compact against, and the join is cracked before you start. A saw gives a vertical face through sound material, so the patch is full thickness right up to the join.
How far outside the damage do you cut?
Far enough to reach asphalt that is genuinely sound, which is usually further than the damage looks. Failure fades out rather than stopping at a line, and a cut made on the visible edge puts the new joint into material that is already going. That is why a patch sometimes comes back as a ring around the old patch.
Is this the same as milling?
No. Milling grinds a set depth off the surface across an area, usually to take an overlay. Saw cut and replace removes the full thickness of a defined area and rebuilds it from the base up. Milling is surface work for a lot that is structurally fine; this is structural repair for a lot that is not.
Will the patch be a different color to the rest of the lot?
Yes, at first. New asphalt is black and the lot around it has oxidized to gray, so a fresh patch is obvious. It weathers toward the surrounding color over a season, and sealcoating the lot after the repairs have cured is what makes it uniform. That is the usual order: repairs, then sealer, then stripes.
How soon can we drive on it?
New asphalt is driveable once it has cooled, which is normally the same day. What it will not take straight away is a vehicle turning its wheels while stopped, or a trailer parked in one spot on a hot afternoon. If it needs sealing afterwards, that waits: fresh asphalt has to cure before it takes sealer.

Send a Photo of the Worst Area

Stand on it first. Whether it moves under your weight is the single most useful thing you can tell us, and it decides which repair you are actually buying.

(715) 450-9897